Garden Tractor Info

These are some questions we’ve gotten in our e-mail about Sears -
Craftsman garden tractors. We see some here at our shop for repairs
and have repowered quite a few. It doesn’t seem as though there is as
much on the internet about the Sears and Craftsman as the other
brands. There is a Sears garden tractor Yahoo group, Here’s a link:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thesearsgardentractorgroup/

It is a well moderated forum and the members and moderator there are very helpful.

Q: My dad has an 18 H.P. 1984 Craftsman garden tractor. It runs fine and mows very good. Recently using the mower, the electric clutch
stopped, the engine was still running. I turned the electric clutch
off and ran the mower a few minutes. I tried the electric clutch
again. It worked for about 5 minutes then stopdc again. The engine
was still running. This happened several times. I shut the engine off
and then there was no juice in battery to start engine again. I
charged the battery and the engine started and ran fine several times.
I started mowing again and same thing happened after a while, the
electric clutch stopped and the engine still ran. We cannot find any
naked wires or anything grounded out.

A: Take a voltmeter and hook it to the battery with the engine
running. Your voltmeter should read 13.0 to 14.8 volts. If it reads
less your charging system is not working. Try replacing the rectifier.

Q: My craftsman lawn tractor’s blade deck stays engaged at all times,
as soon as I start the tractor the blades are engaged.

A: Check if the belt clutch tightener is fully releasing when you
disengage your PTO. Also check all your belt guides and make sure
they are adjusted correctly. Also do you have the correct length belt
and correct width belt on your unit?

Q: I have a Craftsman 25 horsepower riding mower with a Kohler engine in it. The engine starts and runs fine, but the darn thing blows the 30 amp fuse and dies every time I pull the PTO knob to engage the
mower blades. I don’t see any bare wires shorting out anywhere. Any
ideas? Is it the PTO switch, or the ignition switch, or the electric
clutch? Just trying to figure out where to start replacing stuff.

A: You will have to locate a short within the circuit of the PTO
switch and the PTO clutch, you might need a new clutch.

Q: Is there a way to increase the performance of my new FS5500
Craftsman lawn tractor’s transaxle? Perhaps a valve that can be
shimmed up. Under heavy load it’s like pulling a harrow uphill, the
engine doesn’t bog down but the wheels don’t turn. I can back up, take
the hill at a lesser angle & it does fine. I plan on installing some lug tread tires too.

A: They have that safety feature built into the transmission because
the transmission will not hold up to a higher stress level.

Q: I own a Sears 14HP garden tractor and it is approximately 6-8 yrs
old. I have noticed that it runs rough at low speed. I have changed
the spark plugs but no change.

A: It could be a dirty carburetor or water in the carburetor. I
think you should try adjusting your valve clearance.

The Case and Ingersoll garden tractors are good quality, solidly built, vintage tractors. At our shop they are one of the most popular selling repowers we do. Many have had their tractors since they were new, some have inherited them from family or with some property they’ve purchased. There is a Case Garden Tractor Yahoo group where owners share their tips and ideas. We have a Case - Ingersoll Repower web page on our web site with questions and answers about repowering (replacing the engine) the Case-Ingersoll garden tractors. Here are some of the questions and answers about the
Case - Ingersoll models we’ve gotten in our e-mails:

Q: I need to replace the fuel pump on my Case 446 garden tractor. The pump is defective - the tractor will not fire when cranked unless I pour a little gas in the carburetor. Then it will run fine until the gas is gone. Do you have the parts to replace / or rebuild the unit? If not would you recommend using another 12 dc pump on the gas line that would be activated when the key is turned on?

A: Yes, just install an electric fuel pump in series with the current fuel pump and carburetor.

Q: I have a case 446 garden tractor built in 1974. The starters drive gear will spin but will not go forward to engage the flywheel. That’s problem number one. Problem number two is the front shield. My brothers solution is to cut the shield to gain access the area to remove the starter. I would like to avoid this at all costs.

A: You need to remove the engine, and remove the fan shroud, and then unbolt the starter.

Q: I just bought a Case 444 garden tractor and I am having problems getting it to run. When I bypass the solenoid it will just go clunck, clunk. It acts as if it is not getting any fire. I changed the coil, sparkplug, and wire. I just bought a new solenoid. It’s getting gas b/c it is running out of the air filter. What do you suggest?

A: By going clunk, clunk, are you telling me the starter and engine are not turning over? If that is so, it sounds like you have a shorted starter, or a starter with an open circuit.

Q: I have an Ingersoll 448 garden tractor. I was reading about the repowering you’ve done and am quite impressed. I think I will do it later during winter season. I think the price is great and it sounds very easy.

I do have a question for you. I’ve tinkered with this mower for years now and it’s been very reliable. Recently the battery light has been staying on, lights are dim and the battery eventually runs down and needs to be charged to start it. I just replaced the rectifier/regulator and it still stays on. There’s a little metal capacitor looking device with 3 wires (1 going to the starter relay, 1 going to the battery light and 1 going to the negative battery terminal). Do you think this part is bad? I guess the key switch may be involved too as I look at the wiring diagram. What do you suggest?

Also, this mower surges when running. It’s a steady constant rev and decline. when I mow, I don’t notice it at full throttle but when i slow the engine it begins again… hot or cold. I noticed that when it pulls itself under a slight load, it quits too. The only other remedy is to pull the choke half way out and it idles smooth. I changed the fuel and air filter and it still does it.

A: I think you need to check if the center wire on your rectifier is hot with the ignition on. If it is not hot, that is your problem. The second test you need to have an AC voltmeter and check the two stator wires with the engine running and they should be putting out 24 to 36 AC volts. If it is not the stator is junk and I would not fix that as it also sounds like you are having Onan governor problems.

Q: I am getting ready to purchase a gently used (290 hours!) Ingersoll 3014 with a Vanguard V-Twin 14hp engine. Does this tractor still have the mechanical PTO clutch like the old Case 22x / 44x series?

A: No it will already have the new electric clutch on it.

Q: I have a 446 Case garden tractor with a B43M Onan Engine. I have replaced the coil, but I am still not getting any spark across the points. Is there a kit or a way to wire up two coils ?

A: No, there is no reason to hook up 2 coils, you should check out your primary side bracket first.

We offer free “technical support” about most outdoor power equipment. Jim doesn’t know all the answers but helps when he can. Disclaimer: He isn’t always right! We have quite a few of the questions asked on our web site and according to the calls and e-mails we get, you like reading them! Here’s more:

Q: I have a Yard Machine (Gold Series) 17.5 hp engine. Because of work I do not get to cut the grass until late evening, so I install a couple spot lights to allow cutting at night.
Unfortunately the lights are draining the battery. What are my options? I am thinking of installing an alternator. is it very difficult?

A: You should be able to order out a bigger amperage output alternator and rectifier and come up with enough power to stay ahead of your added lights.

Q: I have an early 1970’s Jacobsen Super Chief, Hydro 1200 tractor, with a Rand
Hydro-Transmissions unit in it, number 90-4029. I would like to know which transmission oil to use. I have been told by one dealer to use Dextron automatic transmission oil and be another dealer to use regular hydraulic fluid. I would certainly appreciate knowing for sure which type of oil to use.

A: I would use the red Dextron III transmission oil.

Q: Is there a way for me to test the alternator on my Toro Wheel Horse 520-H garden tractor? To be honest, I can’t even locate an alternator. According to owners manual the alternator is 12 Volt, 20 amp. Regulated. When the battery is fully charged the voltmeter reads 12 volts. As it discharges there is no voltage reading. The 30-amp fuse tests good. If you can help me locate the alternator I can check electrical connections. Apparently this is some kind of pulse alternator since I can’t locate it. The engine is an Onan P-220-G I/10955D.

A: I think if you would install a new rectifier you would be working fine again. First make sure you have power to the center wire on the regulator with the ignition key on.

Q: I have a Scotts 2554 and the electric clutch makes a squealing sound when the mower is not engaged. When the mower is engaged the sound goes away. I understand that the clutch has a brake adjustment. How do I adjust it? The mower has a Kohler 25 hp motor with serial number 3034903061. If the bearing in the clutch is bad how much trouble is it to take it off and where is the best place to get a replacement part?

A: You adjust those self locking nuts until you have about .010 clearance in the brake. It sounds to me like you have a bad bearing and on that clutch I do not think the bearing can be replaced. That would make you have to replace the complete clutch.

Q: Help… mowing season is here and after servicing my Simplicity mower I now find that the mower starts and runs fine. However…when I engage the PTO the engine stalls. I replaced the PTO dash switch and unfortunately this did not help. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts that might assist me with my troubleshooting?

A: Yes, check out the wiring or the seat switch for an open circuit. Check out the hydrostatic switch and the switch on the brakes.

If you are contemplating which garden tractor to buy, there are quite a few options to consider. You not only need to plan on what you want the tractor to do now but have some insight into what you might want to do with later. Will you ever want to use a front end loader or a 2 stage snowblower? Then you might want to consider a heavier duty machine. You will also want to know if the attachments you want now or in the future will be available. That is when it is helpful to have a better known brand of garden tractor, later when you want to buy accessories and parts. With so much information on the internet it’s pretty easy to find information on all the new machines and what they have to offer, it’s a little harder to find information on the “good” older machines. Some want a new shiny machine but you might want to consider something you may already have, getting attachments for it, or repowering and getting it running again. We hear from quite a few of you that have had someone give them their old tractor, or they have inherited one. My knowledge is best in the John Deere line of used garden tractors but we have been repowering all the brands since 1988 and have repaired and repowered some great older Cub Cadets, Simplicitys, Cases, Grasshoppers,Craftsmans, Alles Chalmers, Kubotas, Snappers, Great Danes, Toro Groundsmaster, Ransomes, and Ariens. A few e-mails asking - Which model?:

Q: I’m looking for a used John Deere riding mower but I am unsure of the model size that would work best for me. For physical size/storage I’m looking to stay between 100-300 series with turf tires and 38″ mower deck.

I have a little less than 1 1/2 acre of lawn to mow, but I am also looking to use it during the winter to plow snow from sidewalks/driveways.

The features I’m looking for are automatic transmission, power steering, hydraulics up front for a snow plow/snow thrower (preferably 2 stage), rear hydraulics for tiller, a snow cab, and a model that came with good front lights for night visibility. Can you tell me what year and model you would suggest so I can begin my search?

A: Your 100-30 series will not cover your demands. It sounds to me like you should check into the X700 models if you are wanting something new. Otherwise, a John Deere 318 will do everything you asked for and so would a lot of the other older John Deere garden tractors.

Q: I’d like your opinion. Which is better, the 318 or a newer 425? It seems they are both comparable in features and price. The 425 may be a couple hundred more for a machine with like hours. I know they have some different features, but it seems to me they are similar with both being 20 H.P. and having the hydraulic quick connects. The biggest difference I see is the differential lock and elimination of the two separate brake pedals on the 425, and the engine. Which would YOU rather have for the same money?

I would like to do some landscape type grading for leveling up people’s yards and renewing lawns ( stripping off the root mat, grading, spreading blended topsoil, and reseeding, as well as providing mowing service). Do these tractors do a good job loosening up sod with a small disk harrow or would it be better to get one of the John Deere rear mount roto tillers? I know I need a three point hitch and rear PTO for the tiller, but I also feel pretty sure you will have all the parts I need to make that work. If the answer is the roto tiller, then a front blade would be in order. If the disc harrow would work, a back blade wouldn’t be too hard to switch with the harrow, and I have experience with back blades and box scrapers. I have a gut feeling that the 425 would be a better machine for this type of work – mostly because of the newer water cooled Kawasaki V-twin engine and the longevity and reliability it would provide. But, I also know the 318 is one of your favorite models. What’s your opinion on this?

A: You are correct, I would much rather have a John Deere 425 with a water cooled engine. A tractor rototiller works much better than a walk behind rototiller.

Q: I have a chance to buy a John Deere 425 garden tractor with a little over 700 hours on it. I tested it and all looks and sounds good. A friend knows the back ground of the tractor and all sounds good. It is a one owner and cut about three acres. Is this as good a tractor as the 318? Are there any short comings about the 425 that you know of or things I should look for?

A: This tractor is rated with the 318 and 332 tractors. The only problem we have the 425, 445 is that the plastic camshaft teeth would break off from heat and then a new camshaft needs to be put in. It is not that big of a deal.

The John Deere 318 garden tractors were built from 1983 to 1992. The John Deere 425 was built from 1993 to 2001. I am not necessarily saying newer is better. The 318 has a flat head, air cooled engine in it. The 425 has a V-Twin overhead valve, water cooled engine, 20 horsepower. All of this is much better than an air cooled engine and of course has 2 more horsepower than the 318. The 425 is smoother and quieter than the 318. The 425 has a posi lock rear end and no individual brakes. The 318 has individual brakes but no posi lock rear end. The 318 travels at 7.2 MPH and the 425 travels at 8.4 MPH.

If you live in an area that gets snowfall, then snow removal has been on your mind. Even though we are in Minnesota, close to the Twin City area, we don’t have a ground covering yet, everyone is getting ready because we know it’s coming.

We have quite a few different options for sale so you can get the job done. Our ATV or 4 wheeler snowblower attachment has been very popular and we’ve sold out quite a few times this year. I’ve learned that the snowblowers and blade/plows are a popular item with the ATV - 4 wheeler crowd. They don’t just ride them, they work them! Our 2 stage snow thrower has a big 23 horsepower engine in it and it can really throw the snow.

The garden tractors are what we personally use, I honestly use a blade most of the time because we tend to get consistent snow instead of getting dumped on. We sell 2 sizes of new Bercomac push blades and have used John Deere blade - plows.

Out East they get dumped on and many of our 2 stage snowblowers are getting shipped out there. We carry the new Bercomac snowblowers for almost any brand of garden tractor and we have used John Deere snowblowers too.

I have the luxury of having a yard full of tractors so I have one with a snow blower on it ready to use if we get a heavy snowfall. I also have a front end loader on my “Bird” the modified John Deere 318. I move snow with it keeping the bucket on the ground pushing the snow. It has headlights in the bucket so I can see what I’m doing at night. The Bird has an 23 horsepower Vanguard engine in it and with some weights on the rear, wheel weights, and fluid in the tires it can go most anywhere under all conditions. My little 33 year old John Deere 140 has a front end loader on it too. He has a 16 horsepower Vanguard engine and is weighted down, he’s out there working in every snowfall too. You should see the little guy pull cars that are stuck out of the snow drifts.

The Winter wind likes to take the snow you’re moving and blow it right in your face, for that we have the universal garden tractor cabs. This tractor cab is made of woven polyethylene and has a tubular galvanize steel frame. The windows are flexible PVC and the cab has Velcro openings that give access to the rear gas tank and under the hood. All of the tractor and snow removal equipment controls remain inside the cab. It is equipped with large air vents to prevent accumulation of carbon monoxide.

I you need weight to get your equipment to do the job it’s meant to do, we have suitcase weights and front and rear suitcase brackets to hang the the weights on your tractor. We have the garden tractor wheel weights too.

So get out there and move the snow!

Are you trying to fix your lawn mower or garden tractor? I hope you can find a little help either here on our blog or on our web site. I don’t know about you, but when I’m having trouble with something, the best answers I get to my problems usually come after a quick Google search of the problem. These are diagnosing and troubleshooting questions and answers about Cub Cadets. One of our web site pages also deals with Cub Cadet garden tractors and lawn mowers.

Q: What can cause the PTO belt to break on a series 2000 Cub Cadet riding mower? Mine has broken three times and I don’t want to replace until I can repair it. After replacing, I am able to get about half the yard mowed before it breaks again. All the pulleys seem to be moving freely. Can you help?

A: Check if you may have a faulty belt tightener that is getting the belt so tight that you are breaking the belt. Also check when you raise the mower up, if that and see if that makes the belt much too tight.

Q: I have a Cub Cadet 1440 Garden Tractor that I purchased new in 1995.

Yesterday, I noticed the amp indicator light flickered at idle speed. It was a slight flicker for just a split second and then would flicker again in several seconds. The light never came on at full speed when mowing. With the tractor was running and I turned the headlights on, at idle speed the amp light is bright red and as I increase the engine speed the amp light gradually dims but never goes fully off. At no time did the tractor ever run differently from before or ever act like the engine was going to cut off.

A: Check your charging voltage at the time the light is flickering. The charging voltage should be around 13 volts. If it is lower you could have a faulty voltage rectifier or maybe a bad cell in the battery.

Q: I have a 2150 Cub Cadet garden tractor. The PTO occasionally will not engage, usually after its been running for awhile. If I switch it off and attempt to re-engage it just will not work and I can’t finish the lawn. Is it the clutch or the switch and what’s a good way to test?

A: Check out your amperage draw on your PTO clutch coil after you have run it long enough, until it will not restart. Then check it and your amp draw should be about 2 amps maximum. If it is more, then you should replace the PTO clutch or PTO clutch coil.

I get quite a few questions about Crafstman garden tractors and they have been a pretty popular brand over the years. We have repowered some and repaired some here at our shop. There is a Yahoo group/forum for Sears garden tractors. Joseph is the moderator and a pleasant, helful guy. If you check out their files and database sections there are some helpful guides for attachments. Following are a few Q&A’s we’ve answered about Craftsman garden tractors.

Q: We have a Craftsman Garden Tractor model # 917.257720. It stalls out after it warms up or is under load for a few minutes. We have given it a full tune up, replaced the gas filter, new carb, changed all the belts, changed oil and filter, adjusted carb.

A: You need to check out your ignition spark quality. I sounds to me like you have a bad ignition coil.

Q: Jim, I have a Craftsman tractor with a Kohler Command 20.5 hp twin engine. It runs fine cold and mows with no problem at all. When I am finished mowing (engine hot) and turn off the deck, the engine idle varies, like it is hunting for the proper speed when the load is released. It will run with this hunting idle until I turn it off. Once cool, it starts right up and idles smoothly again. Any idea of where to look to correct this problem?

A: Yes, that sounds to me like a carburetor air fuel ratio problem. In other words, the carburetor is running lean when hot. You can check this out by putting the choke partially on and then I would say your engine will smooth right out.

Q: I have an old Craftsman Lawn Wizard with a Kohler 20 hp engine. I have to replace the electric PTO, I guess it is the bolt in the center of the motor,however, everything spins when I try to remove the bolt, what is the trick to remove the pto?

A: To check your PTO clutch, put an ammeter in series with your PTO clutch and check your amp draw. It should be 3 amps or less. If it is more, you need to replace the PTO clutch.

The very easy way to get that front bolt loose is to use an impact wrench, it will come off without even holding onto the crankshaft.

Garden tractor pulling is not the same as garden tractor racing. Pulling is not about the speed of the tractor but about the power and traction it has. Over the years I have won and lost with quite an assortment of garden tractors of just about every brand. I lost most of my pullers in a fire a few years back but I have a few built up again. I am definitely not an expert about tractor pulling but I’ve done a lot of it. I started with pulling my dad’s farm tractor a few times in North Dakota. Later I tried my hand at pulling with my “classic” John Deere’s, a John Deere 830 and John Deere 820. I switched to garden tractor pulling in the 70’s. I have a garden tractor pulling page on our web site, you can check out some pictures there if you are interested. Check out our “Geo Story” page too, I put a 3 cylinder Chevy Geo engine in a John Deere 140 for tractor pulling, later I put the same engine in a John Deere 317. There are tips and tricks about tractor pulling and lots of advice on Brian Miller’s web site. The most common e-mailed question I get is:

Q: I would like to build my own garden tractor puller, I have a garden tractor, what do I do next?

My answer always is:

A: You need to check with the people or association that you are going to pull with, find out the different weight classes they will be having pulls in, and get their list of rules. That will tell you what kind of garden tractors, engines, tires, weights, and safety equipment you can use.

Q: My daughter has pulled lawn and garden tractors for the past two years in 1100 lb and 1400 lb stock classes with good success, but this year we are looking to step it up considerably. Our first year we used a Wheel Horse with a single cylinder 12HP - 8 speed and ran mid pack. Last year we used a Wheel Horse 416-8 with a twin 16HPp engine and finished in the money with every pull. This year I was looking to go with a Wheel Horse 520H, but a friend of mine who used to pull successfully in the past told me that the 520H was a great tractor, but would not pull as well as a gear driven because the hydro has no low range and just didn’t pull well. I then found a rare 520-8, but the same friend told me that this would be more power than I would need and would spin out. He suggested sticking to the 416-8. In my opinion, there is no such thing as too much power in pulling and that although they do weigh more, and you can’t put much weight on for the 1100lb class, a hydro might do well and the more horses the better, right?

A: Yes, your correct, the hydro will do better with more horses. I would say you need at least 2 extra horsepower to stay with the stick transmission. You are also correct in saying there is no such thing as too much horsepower, if it had too much power that meant you should have been in a higher gear.

Q: I have recently become interested in garden tractor pulling and have found a good buy on a John Deere 300. It will need a new engine, but my concern was more with the transmission and differential. Will the hydrostatic and rear end hold up good for a puller, or should I keep shopping?

A: Do not worry about that transmission and rear end. I have already put a Chevrolet engine ahead of that package and didn’t even hurt it at 6000 RPM’s.

It’s summer and time to mow the grass. Starting up the mower decks sometimes uncovers needed repairs.

Q: I just bought a used John Deere LX176 mower, The blades will not engage. When I brought it home today everything was working fine, however, when I turned off the blades to move to another area to mow, NOTHING. I called the mower shop where I purchased it and was told to replace all fuses, so I did, still NOTHING. I even replaced the PTO switch with a new one, still NOTHING, all wires are still connected.

A: Check your safety switch in the seat. Check your safety switch on the brake pedal (if it has one there). Check the wiring into the ignition switch for corrosion. If all of that is not a problem hot wire to the PTO clutch itself and see if that works O.K.

Q: Mowing season is here and after servicing my mower I now find that the mower on my Simplicity garden tractor starts and runs fine. However when I engage the PTO the engine stalls. I replaced the PTO dash switch and unfortunately this did not help. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts that might assist me with my troubleshooting?

A: Yes, check out the wiring or the seat switch for an open circuit. Check out the hydrostatic switch and the switch on the brakes.

Q: Is there an in line fuse for the PTO Switch in my John Deere LX176 lawn tractor? I have replaced the seat switch, the PTO switch, and the two fuses from behind the panel (steering)and the blades still will not engage. No wires were found disconnected. Does this leave the clutch to be replaced next?

A: The first thing to do is temporarily hot wire your PTO clutch and if your clutch works O.K., then start checking into your tractor circuits and wiring.

Q: I have a 455 John Deere Power shift which had a snow blade on front. I intend to cut grass with it and have removed the blade and hydraulics. The mowing deck was not with the tractor so I planned to fit one to a 3 point hitch and operate it off the PTO. Problem is, I cannot get the pto to engage. I pulled out the button on the dash and the dash lights up, but the shaft doesn’t spin. Do I need the mower fitted to the shaft before it will work? There is a handle at tbe rear beside the lift arms that has 3 settings, I am unsure as to its function. There is also a front driven PTO shaft, how does this engage?

A: At one of the settings, it runs the front PTO only, at the next setting it runs the rear PTO only, at the 3rd setting it runs both PTO’s at the same time. Because the light comes on it sounds like there is an electrical magnetic switch problem in the rear end.

Q: I have a John Deere 185 hydro. When I engage the blades they do not work. No noise, no nothing. What can the trouble be? Sounds like a switch to me. Any suggestions?

A: First clean the wires that plug into the backside of your PTO switch, then check out the PTO switch itself. You can also run a hot wire to your PTO clutch and see if the clutch clicks in and out.

Q: I have a John Deere F525 front mount mower and the blades suddenly decided not to work. The mower starts and runs fine, belts are ok, mower moves forward and reverse. Problem is when I pull the mower on switch, nothing. The belts don’t move, the blades no longer want to play. Everything works when moved by hand. I checked the fuses, and all are ok. Any suggestions as to where I might start to identify the problem?

A: You need to check out your PTO switch, brake switch, and other safety switches. Also check for corroded or dirty wiring and connections. Check to see if electricity is getting down to the electric clutch.

These garden tractors all have something in common, they are powered with Onan engines. The Onans are decent engines but it is getting more difficult to find parts for any needed repairs.

Q: My John Deere 318 garden tractor with an Onan 18HP engine surges or pulsates under no load. When the PTO is engaged with any attachment the surge disappears? I bought it used last year and it is a great work horse.

A: It sounds to me like you have water or dirt in the carburetor. Take the top off and check for dirt or water. Take out the front jet toward the muffler, blow air through that orifice. Put it back together and adjust that air screw by the muffler and I would like to think everything now would be O.K.

Q: I have a Simplicity 9020 garden tractor with a tired Onan engine. I’m wondering about replacing the engine, or rebuilding it. Are parts still available for Onan?

A: Onan is slowly going out of business as they did not build an engine to pass our pollution standards. Our 23 horsepower Vanguard engine is by far the best way to go and is the best air cooled engine that money can buy.

Q: I have a 1987 John Deere 420 garden tractor with an Onan 20 HP engine and it surges. When I remove the air cleaner I can see the fuel being squirted into the carburetor when a surge comes. I have rebuilt most of the motor and installed a new carburetor and it is still doing it. Do you have any advice? Do you have a repower in a Vanguard?

A: It sounds to me like you have a leaking intake manifold. The way they have built the intake manifold is a bad design. Yes we have a Vanguard V-Twin overhead valve engine and made to order installation kit for your application.

Q: I have an Onan P218G with electronic ignition in my John Deere 317 garden tractor. It Runs great. I replaced the rings about 2 years ago and so the engine is clean inside.

When I start it, it often kicks back. Sometimes it locks up the starter. When it does this I have to take off the side cover and pry on the cooling fins to turn over the engine a small amount to get the starter to work again.

I took the engine out and checked to make sure the flywheel key was not broken off, it wasn’t. I replaced the spark plugs and this seemed to help some but now it is kicking back and locking up the starter again. It even unscrewed the nut on the starter twice and I had to take the engine out to put the nut back on.

Do I need a new electronic ignition?

A: When you had the engine out did you check the 2 holes in the block where the 2 starter bolts go through? You need to make sure one of those holes or both are not cracked or broken. You should replace that electronic module inside the flywheel. Also there is an electric ring slid on the crankshaft, that should be inspected and or replaced.

Q: I am the owner of a John Deere 420 garden tractor. I have been very happy with it since purchasing it used 6 years ago. Recently I have been having a problem with it losing power and shutting down after running for about 20 minutes. After checking it I discovered the spark is not there. What could be causing this situation? I think it is the Ignition coil or stator, can you confirm this for me? It is a P220G with an electronic ignition.

A: It would not be the stator because that has nothing to do with the ignition system, and yes it can be the ignition coil and or the ignition module located inside the flywheel.