These are some questions we’ve gotten in our e-mail about Sears -
Craftsman garden tractors. We see some here at our shop for repairs
and have repowered quite a few. It doesn’t seem as though there is as
much on the internet about the Sears and Craftsman as the other
brands. There is a Sears garden tractor Yahoo group, Here’s a link:

http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thesearsgardentractorgroup/

It is a well moderated forum and the members and moderator there are very helpful.

Q: My dad has an 18 H.P. 1984 Craftsman garden tractor. It runs fine and mows very good. Recently using the mower, the electric clutch
stopped, the engine was still running. I turned the electric clutch
off and ran the mower a few minutes. I tried the electric clutch
again. It worked for about 5 minutes then stopdc again. The engine
was still running. This happened several times. I shut the engine off
and then there was no juice in battery to start engine again. I
charged the battery and the engine started and ran fine several times.
I started mowing again and same thing happened after a while, the
electric clutch stopped and the engine still ran. We cannot find any
naked wires or anything grounded out.

A: Take a voltmeter and hook it to the battery with the engine
running. Your voltmeter should read 13.0 to 14.8 volts. If it reads
less your charging system is not working. Try replacing the rectifier.

Q: My craftsman lawn tractor’s blade deck stays engaged at all times,
as soon as I start the tractor the blades are engaged.

A: Check if the belt clutch tightener is fully releasing when you
disengage your PTO. Also check all your belt guides and make sure
they are adjusted correctly. Also do you have the correct length belt
and correct width belt on your unit?

Q: I have a Craftsman 25 horsepower riding mower with a Kohler engine in it. The engine starts and runs fine, but the darn thing blows the 30 amp fuse and dies every time I pull the PTO knob to engage the
mower blades. I don’t see any bare wires shorting out anywhere. Any
ideas? Is it the PTO switch, or the ignition switch, or the electric
clutch? Just trying to figure out where to start replacing stuff.

A: You will have to locate a short within the circuit of the PTO
switch and the PTO clutch, you might need a new clutch.

Q: Is there a way to increase the performance of my new FS5500
Craftsman lawn tractor’s transaxle? Perhaps a valve that can be
shimmed up. Under heavy load it’s like pulling a harrow uphill, the
engine doesn’t bog down but the wheels don’t turn. I can back up, take
the hill at a lesser angle & it does fine. I plan on installing some lug tread tires too.

A: They have that safety feature built into the transmission because
the transmission will not hold up to a higher stress level.

Q: I own a Sears 14HP garden tractor and it is approximately 6-8 yrs
old. I have noticed that it runs rough at low speed. I have changed
the spark plugs but no change.

A: It could be a dirty carburetor or water in the carburetor. I
think you should try adjusting your valve clearance.

The Dixon lawn mowers are good quality machines that are very popular with lawn care companies. We don’t receive a lot of e-mail and calls about the Dixon mowers, maybe they hardly break down? This year our summer has been hot and dry, so there hasn’t been a lot of mowing going on. A couple of successes with helping figure out what was wrong with Dixons:

Q: I have taken a blown 13 HP Briggs and Stratton engine off my Dixon mower, model 4421 and a good, running donor engine which is a 15.5 HP Briggs and Stratton engine. I have made the wire connections match exactly has they were on the 13 HP that I removed. When I attempt to start the engine, I get what feels like not enough power to the starter. The starter engages the fly wheel and stays engaged even after I let off the key switch. I don’t even get a single rotation of the flywheel. I checked the battery and I am getting right at 13 volts. I can manually hand rotate the top of the motor where the plastic grille is with no problem. Is there something I am missing on this swap? Maybe the solenoid needs to be swapped out as well? The one thing on this swap that is different between the 2 engines, besides the horsepower, is the 15.5 had a fuel solenoid switch screwed in to the bottom of the carburetor assembly. The 13 did not. I unscrewed the switch out of the 15.5 and installed the screw that was in the 13. Everything fit perfectly. Surely this would not keep the motor from at least turning. Please give me your best thoughts on this scenario.

A: Yes, it sounds like you are telling me that both engines have starter solenoids. If this is true that is your problem, are you trying to start your engine without a solenoid hooked between your starter switch and starter motor?

Follow up: Just wanted you to know what the problem was with the engine swap that I emailed and called you about the other day. When my engine blew while mowing, I immediately turned off the ignition switch key and started looking to see what happened. Here is the kicker: I did not turn off the switch for the electric clutch, only the ignition switch. When I saw the hole in the side of the engine, I forgot about everything else and just started thinking about where to get a donor engine. So tonight while I am still troubleshooting everything, I am using that jumper wire again that you told me about, going from the battery positive post to the side of the starter post and I look down and notice the blade belts are turning as well. I look at the switch on the panel and sure enough, the clutch switch was still engaged. I switched it off and tried again and she kicked over like it was brand new. I guess the battery did not have enough juice to run the blades as well as start the engine. What a headache about nothing but yet what relief to know I had found the problem. So there you go. You were so helpful the other day and since I found the problem, just wanted to let you know that using the jumper wire I think is what saved me and you suggested it, so thanks.

Q: I’ve had this Dixon rider with a Onan p220 engine for 15 years. It always ran ok, until now, I lost spark on it so I replaced the trigger module under the flywheel, put it back together, it ran okay for three weeks. It ran it out of gas one day so I put gas in it. Now all it will do is backfire, sometimes from the muffler and sometimes the carburetor. Sometimes when it fires it will stop the engine cold? and if you choke it a lot then take it off of choke it will try to run backwards for a lick or two. HELP anything come to your mind?

A: You might have burned out that new module you put in because you did not put in a new ignition coil at the same time.

Follow up: Replacing the coil did the trick. Thanks! I’m mowing with my rider not pushing with a walking mower!

The Case and Ingersoll garden tractors are good quality, solidly built, vintage tractors. At our shop they are one of the most popular selling repowers we do. Many have had their tractors since they were new, some have inherited them from family or with some property they’ve purchased. There is a Case Garden Tractor Yahoo group where owners share their tips and ideas. We have a Case - Ingersoll Repower web page on our web site with questions and answers about repowering (replacing the engine) the Case-Ingersoll garden tractors. Here are some of the questions and answers about the
Case - Ingersoll models we’ve gotten in our e-mails:

Q: I need to replace the fuel pump on my Case 446 garden tractor. The pump is defective - the tractor will not fire when cranked unless I pour a little gas in the carburetor. Then it will run fine until the gas is gone. Do you have the parts to replace / or rebuild the unit? If not would you recommend using another 12 dc pump on the gas line that would be activated when the key is turned on?

A: Yes, just install an electric fuel pump in series with the current fuel pump and carburetor.

Q: I have a case 446 garden tractor built in 1974. The starters drive gear will spin but will not go forward to engage the flywheel. That’s problem number one. Problem number two is the front shield. My brothers solution is to cut the shield to gain access the area to remove the starter. I would like to avoid this at all costs.

A: You need to remove the engine, and remove the fan shroud, and then unbolt the starter.

Q: I just bought a Case 444 garden tractor and I am having problems getting it to run. When I bypass the solenoid it will just go clunck, clunk. It acts as if it is not getting any fire. I changed the coil, sparkplug, and wire. I just bought a new solenoid. It’s getting gas b/c it is running out of the air filter. What do you suggest?

A: By going clunk, clunk, are you telling me the starter and engine are not turning over? If that is so, it sounds like you have a shorted starter, or a starter with an open circuit.

Q: I have an Ingersoll 448 garden tractor. I was reading about the repowering you’ve done and am quite impressed. I think I will do it later during winter season. I think the price is great and it sounds very easy.

I do have a question for you. I’ve tinkered with this mower for years now and it’s been very reliable. Recently the battery light has been staying on, lights are dim and the battery eventually runs down and needs to be charged to start it. I just replaced the rectifier/regulator and it still stays on. There’s a little metal capacitor looking device with 3 wires (1 going to the starter relay, 1 going to the battery light and 1 going to the negative battery terminal). Do you think this part is bad? I guess the key switch may be involved too as I look at the wiring diagram. What do you suggest?

Also, this mower surges when running. It’s a steady constant rev and decline. when I mow, I don’t notice it at full throttle but when i slow the engine it begins again… hot or cold. I noticed that when it pulls itself under a slight load, it quits too. The only other remedy is to pull the choke half way out and it idles smooth. I changed the fuel and air filter and it still does it.

A: I think you need to check if the center wire on your rectifier is hot with the ignition on. If it is not hot, that is your problem. The second test you need to have an AC voltmeter and check the two stator wires with the engine running and they should be putting out 24 to 36 AC volts. If it is not the stator is junk and I would not fix that as it also sounds like you are having Onan governor problems.

Q: I am getting ready to purchase a gently used (290 hours!) Ingersoll 3014 with a Vanguard V-Twin 14hp engine. Does this tractor still have the mechanical PTO clutch like the old Case 22x / 44x series?

A: No it will already have the new electric clutch on it.

Q: I have a 446 Case garden tractor with a B43M Onan Engine. I have replaced the coil, but I am still not getting any spark across the points. Is there a kit or a way to wire up two coils ?

A: No, there is no reason to hook up 2 coils, you should check out your primary side bracket first.

We offer free “technical support” about most outdoor power equipment. Jim doesn’t know all the answers but helps when he can. Disclaimer: He isn’t always right! We have quite a few of the questions asked on our web site and according to the calls and e-mails we get, you like reading them! Here’s more:

Q: I have a Yard Machine (Gold Series) 17.5 hp engine. Because of work I do not get to cut the grass until late evening, so I install a couple spot lights to allow cutting at night.
Unfortunately the lights are draining the battery. What are my options? I am thinking of installing an alternator. is it very difficult?

A: You should be able to order out a bigger amperage output alternator and rectifier and come up with enough power to stay ahead of your added lights.

Q: I have an early 1970’s Jacobsen Super Chief, Hydro 1200 tractor, with a Rand
Hydro-Transmissions unit in it, number 90-4029. I would like to know which transmission oil to use. I have been told by one dealer to use Dextron automatic transmission oil and be another dealer to use regular hydraulic fluid. I would certainly appreciate knowing for sure which type of oil to use.

A: I would use the red Dextron III transmission oil.

Q: Is there a way for me to test the alternator on my Toro Wheel Horse 520-H garden tractor? To be honest, I can’t even locate an alternator. According to owners manual the alternator is 12 Volt, 20 amp. Regulated. When the battery is fully charged the voltmeter reads 12 volts. As it discharges there is no voltage reading. The 30-amp fuse tests good. If you can help me locate the alternator I can check electrical connections. Apparently this is some kind of pulse alternator since I can’t locate it. The engine is an Onan P-220-G I/10955D.

A: I think if you would install a new rectifier you would be working fine again. First make sure you have power to the center wire on the regulator with the ignition key on.

Q: I have a Scotts 2554 and the electric clutch makes a squealing sound when the mower is not engaged. When the mower is engaged the sound goes away. I understand that the clutch has a brake adjustment. How do I adjust it? The mower has a Kohler 25 hp motor with serial number 3034903061. If the bearing in the clutch is bad how much trouble is it to take it off and where is the best place to get a replacement part?

A: You adjust those self locking nuts until you have about .010 clearance in the brake. It sounds to me like you have a bad bearing and on that clutch I do not think the bearing can be replaced. That would make you have to replace the complete clutch.

Q: Help… mowing season is here and after servicing my Simplicity mower I now find that the mower starts and runs fine. However…when I engage the PTO the engine stalls. I replaced the PTO dash switch and unfortunately this did not help. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts that might assist me with my troubleshooting?

A: Yes, check out the wiring or the seat switch for an open circuit. Check out the hydrostatic switch and the switch on the brakes.

Around here we call all the annoying things that go wrong with your machine when you try to use it first time out the “Wintertime Blues”. Why does it not work when it worked fine when we put it away? We don’t know, sorry. But we fix all kinds of machinery here at our shop and answer lots of questions about it. Here are a few:

Q: Jim, I have not used my tractor in about 6 months. I tried starting it but the tractor backfires during a higher speed and eventually will stop. I already replaced the gas filter, cleaned the air filter, and replaced the spark plug. What could it be?

A: Make sure your valves are not sticking in the valve quires from sitting too long.

Q: I have a question regarding my John Deere 316 garden tractor and a problem with the hydraulic blade sticking in position. The blade functionally is not the problem. we have switched the hoses around to verify that it is not the blade, also the handle linkage is not stuck. One of the four hookups does not allow the blade to return. We can make the blade go up, but cannot return it back down (also we can do the same with left to right if we switch our hook ups around). We have been putting the blade down and lifting the tractor off the ground and having the stuck hookup be the return that would lift the blade. We leave the handle in the down position and over about a 3 hour period, it will slowly release and set the tractor back on the ground. Any thoughts on how to release this sticking? The fluid used is the transmission fluid of the tractor, would a transmission cleaner additive work?

A: It sounds to me like you will need to replace the double hydraulic control valve and see if that takes care of your problem.

Q: Jim my problem with my John Deere 425 garden tractor is driving me nuts, The dealer says the switch is good, but seat switch was bad. Now it dies when you take the brake off, The PTO still does not work. Got any good ideas on this problem?

A: Check your fuses, make sure the seat switch is okay, then remove the rear fenders and check out the wiring going from the seat up to under the dash.

Are you trying to fix your lawn mower or garden tractor? I hope you can find a little help either here on our blog or on our web site. I don’t know about you, but when I’m having trouble with something, the best answers I get to my problems usually come after a quick Google search of the problem. These are diagnosing and troubleshooting questions and answers about Cub Cadets. One of our web site pages also deals with Cub Cadet garden tractors and lawn mowers.

Q: What can cause the PTO belt to break on a series 2000 Cub Cadet riding mower? Mine has broken three times and I don’t want to replace until I can repair it. After replacing, I am able to get about half the yard mowed before it breaks again. All the pulleys seem to be moving freely. Can you help?

A: Check if you may have a faulty belt tightener that is getting the belt so tight that you are breaking the belt. Also check when you raise the mower up, if that and see if that makes the belt much too tight.

Q: I have a Cub Cadet 1440 Garden Tractor that I purchased new in 1995.

Yesterday, I noticed the amp indicator light flickered at idle speed. It was a slight flicker for just a split second and then would flicker again in several seconds. The light never came on at full speed when mowing. With the tractor was running and I turned the headlights on, at idle speed the amp light is bright red and as I increase the engine speed the amp light gradually dims but never goes fully off. At no time did the tractor ever run differently from before or ever act like the engine was going to cut off.

A: Check your charging voltage at the time the light is flickering. The charging voltage should be around 13 volts. If it is lower you could have a faulty voltage rectifier or maybe a bad cell in the battery.

Q: I have a 2150 Cub Cadet garden tractor. The PTO occasionally will not engage, usually after its been running for awhile. If I switch it off and attempt to re-engage it just will not work and I can’t finish the lawn. Is it the clutch or the switch and what’s a good way to test?

A: Check out your amperage draw on your PTO clutch coil after you have run it long enough, until it will not restart. Then check it and your amp draw should be about 2 amps maximum. If it is more, then you should replace the PTO clutch or PTO clutch coil.

It might be odd to blog about something that isn’t a garden tractor on a garden tractor blog but there is a lot of equipment out there with similar repair issues to the garden tractors. We work on them and repower them too.

We just did a repower with a Vanguard engine on an Olathe Sweeper. I’ve never seen one of these before, it belongs to a commercial lawn service and it turned out very nice. We have repowered a few golf carts and some skid steers too. A few questions e-mailed in:

Q: I am replacing the engine on a Ford 340 Skid Loader. The loader has a Wisconsin 30 horsepower VH4D engine, 2800 RPM’s. Can a Briggs 31 horsepower engine be used to replace it? Do you think a hydraulic pump can handle the increase in RPM’s? Have you done this before?

A: Yes, we have taken out a 4 cylinder water cooled Continental engine and installed the 31 horsepower Vanguard engine, it is working fine. Your oil pump usually has no more output going at higher RPM’s. If you are worried about the engine speed it can be brought down of course.

Q: I am currently repowering a 1994 Yamaha G2 golf cart with a 21 horsepower Briggs V-twin Vanguard. I have it all mounted and ready to go except I have fuel coming out of the pump but it doesn’t seem to be getting into the the carburetor. It has what I think is a 2 wire solenoid coming off the back lower part of the bowl. I think it is the anti backfire solenoid? Will that keep it from getting fuel or is it possible the needle or float is stuck? The way I have it wired it cranks and has enough spark. I think you could weld with it, but it won’t fire. If I dribble a little fuel down the carburetor it will run but then stops as soon as it is gone.

A: You have to get electricity to that wire going to your carburetor electric shut off valve. The wire from your golf cart would be the wire that hooked to your plus side of the ignition coil on your old engine.

Q: I have a John Deere SB14 walk behind self propelled mower. The other day it stopped running while cutting grass. I thought I ran out of gas, but that was not it. When I pull the crank the engine runs for about 2 seconds and then dies. Every time I pull the crank I’ll get the same 2 seconds and then die. I suspected the fuel filter, but the gas flows fine with the gas valve open. I still took it apart and cleaned out the fuel tank and filter which were very reasonably clean for an old machine. Suspecting possible carburetor problems I took off the carburetor and sprayed carburetor cleaner through it, it also looked pretty clean. I keep on going back to fuel flow, but I seem to have checked out that area fairly well. Can you offer any ideas? I also replaced the spark plug and tried the carburetor adjustments 1 turn clockwise and 1 turn counter, but this seems to make no change.

A: I would check out your ignition spark quality. If you are getting a small spark or if it is orange in color, then replace the ignition coil.

I get quite a few questions about Crafstman garden tractors and they have been a pretty popular brand over the years. We have repowered some and repaired some here at our shop. There is a Yahoo group/forum for Sears garden tractors. Joseph is the moderator and a pleasant, helful guy. If you check out their files and database sections there are some helpful guides for attachments. Following are a few Q&A’s we’ve answered about Craftsman garden tractors.

Q: We have a Craftsman Garden Tractor model # 917.257720. It stalls out after it warms up or is under load for a few minutes. We have given it a full tune up, replaced the gas filter, new carb, changed all the belts, changed oil and filter, adjusted carb.

A: You need to check out your ignition spark quality. I sounds to me like you have a bad ignition coil.

Q: Jim, I have a Craftsman tractor with a Kohler Command 20.5 hp twin engine. It runs fine cold and mows with no problem at all. When I am finished mowing (engine hot) and turn off the deck, the engine idle varies, like it is hunting for the proper speed when the load is released. It will run with this hunting idle until I turn it off. Once cool, it starts right up and idles smoothly again. Any idea of where to look to correct this problem?

A: Yes, that sounds to me like a carburetor air fuel ratio problem. In other words, the carburetor is running lean when hot. You can check this out by putting the choke partially on and then I would say your engine will smooth right out.

Q: I have an old Craftsman Lawn Wizard with a Kohler 20 hp engine. I have to replace the electric PTO, I guess it is the bolt in the center of the motor,however, everything spins when I try to remove the bolt, what is the trick to remove the pto?

A: To check your PTO clutch, put an ammeter in series with your PTO clutch and check your amp draw. It should be 3 amps or less. If it is more, you need to replace the PTO clutch.

The very easy way to get that front bolt loose is to use an impact wrench, it will come off without even holding onto the crankshaft.

It’s summer and time to mow the grass. Starting up the mower decks sometimes uncovers needed repairs.

Q: I just bought a used John Deere LX176 mower, The blades will not engage. When I brought it home today everything was working fine, however, when I turned off the blades to move to another area to mow, NOTHING. I called the mower shop where I purchased it and was told to replace all fuses, so I did, still NOTHING. I even replaced the PTO switch with a new one, still NOTHING, all wires are still connected.

A: Check your safety switch in the seat. Check your safety switch on the brake pedal (if it has one there). Check the wiring into the ignition switch for corrosion. If all of that is not a problem hot wire to the PTO clutch itself and see if that works O.K.

Q: Mowing season is here and after servicing my mower I now find that the mower on my Simplicity garden tractor starts and runs fine. However when I engage the PTO the engine stalls. I replaced the PTO dash switch and unfortunately this did not help. Do you have any suggestions or thoughts that might assist me with my troubleshooting?

A: Yes, check out the wiring or the seat switch for an open circuit. Check out the hydrostatic switch and the switch on the brakes.

Q: Is there an in line fuse for the PTO Switch in my John Deere LX176 lawn tractor? I have replaced the seat switch, the PTO switch, and the two fuses from behind the panel (steering)and the blades still will not engage. No wires were found disconnected. Does this leave the clutch to be replaced next?

A: The first thing to do is temporarily hot wire your PTO clutch and if your clutch works O.K., then start checking into your tractor circuits and wiring.

Q: I have a 455 John Deere Power shift which had a snow blade on front. I intend to cut grass with it and have removed the blade and hydraulics. The mowing deck was not with the tractor so I planned to fit one to a 3 point hitch and operate it off the PTO. Problem is, I cannot get the pto to engage. I pulled out the button on the dash and the dash lights up, but the shaft doesn’t spin. Do I need the mower fitted to the shaft before it will work? There is a handle at tbe rear beside the lift arms that has 3 settings, I am unsure as to its function. There is also a front driven PTO shaft, how does this engage?

A: At one of the settings, it runs the front PTO only, at the next setting it runs the rear PTO only, at the 3rd setting it runs both PTO’s at the same time. Because the light comes on it sounds like there is an electrical magnetic switch problem in the rear end.

Q: I have a John Deere 185 hydro. When I engage the blades they do not work. No noise, no nothing. What can the trouble be? Sounds like a switch to me. Any suggestions?

A: First clean the wires that plug into the backside of your PTO switch, then check out the PTO switch itself. You can also run a hot wire to your PTO clutch and see if the clutch clicks in and out.

Q: I have a John Deere F525 front mount mower and the blades suddenly decided not to work. The mower starts and runs fine, belts are ok, mower moves forward and reverse. Problem is when I pull the mower on switch, nothing. The belts don’t move, the blades no longer want to play. Everything works when moved by hand. I checked the fuses, and all are ok. Any suggestions as to where I might start to identify the problem?

A: You need to check out your PTO switch, brake switch, and other safety switches. Also check for corroded or dirty wiring and connections. Check to see if electricity is getting down to the electric clutch.

These garden tractors all have something in common, they are powered with Onan engines. The Onans are decent engines but it is getting more difficult to find parts for any needed repairs.

Q: My John Deere 318 garden tractor with an Onan 18HP engine surges or pulsates under no load. When the PTO is engaged with any attachment the surge disappears? I bought it used last year and it is a great work horse.

A: It sounds to me like you have water or dirt in the carburetor. Take the top off and check for dirt or water. Take out the front jet toward the muffler, blow air through that orifice. Put it back together and adjust that air screw by the muffler and I would like to think everything now would be O.K.

Q: I have a Simplicity 9020 garden tractor with a tired Onan engine. I’m wondering about replacing the engine, or rebuilding it. Are parts still available for Onan?

A: Onan is slowly going out of business as they did not build an engine to pass our pollution standards. Our 23 horsepower Vanguard engine is by far the best way to go and is the best air cooled engine that money can buy.

Q: I have a 1987 John Deere 420 garden tractor with an Onan 20 HP engine and it surges. When I remove the air cleaner I can see the fuel being squirted into the carburetor when a surge comes. I have rebuilt most of the motor and installed a new carburetor and it is still doing it. Do you have any advice? Do you have a repower in a Vanguard?

A: It sounds to me like you have a leaking intake manifold. The way they have built the intake manifold is a bad design. Yes we have a Vanguard V-Twin overhead valve engine and made to order installation kit for your application.

Q: I have an Onan P218G with electronic ignition in my John Deere 317 garden tractor. It Runs great. I replaced the rings about 2 years ago and so the engine is clean inside.

When I start it, it often kicks back. Sometimes it locks up the starter. When it does this I have to take off the side cover and pry on the cooling fins to turn over the engine a small amount to get the starter to work again.

I took the engine out and checked to make sure the flywheel key was not broken off, it wasn’t. I replaced the spark plugs and this seemed to help some but now it is kicking back and locking up the starter again. It even unscrewed the nut on the starter twice and I had to take the engine out to put the nut back on.

Do I need a new electronic ignition?

A: When you had the engine out did you check the 2 holes in the block where the 2 starter bolts go through? You need to make sure one of those holes or both are not cracked or broken. You should replace that electronic module inside the flywheel. Also there is an electric ring slid on the crankshaft, that should be inspected and or replaced.

Q: I am the owner of a John Deere 420 garden tractor. I have been very happy with it since purchasing it used 6 years ago. Recently I have been having a problem with it losing power and shutting down after running for about 20 minutes. After checking it I discovered the spark is not there. What could be causing this situation? I think it is the Ignition coil or stator, can you confirm this for me? It is a P220G with an electronic ignition.

A: It would not be the stator because that has nothing to do with the ignition system, and yes it can be the ignition coil and or the ignition module located inside the flywheel.