John Deere 322 garden tractor

Questions and answers from my daily e-mails:

Q: What is the best oil to use in the transmission of a 322? Type F auto transmission fluid? Low viscosity Hy Gard? The tractor is used almost exclusively for mowing at this time.

A: I used Type F Ford transmission oil and then switched to Dextron III when that came out. That also covered Type F in the Dextron III. The main thing is not to use Dextron or Type F in the John Deere 425, 445, 455, and the current X models as they have wet PTO clutches and wet brakes.

Q: I have a Toro 38170/CCR Powerlite snowblower that starts alright, runs for about ten minutes, and then stalls out to where you can’t restart it. If you let it sit and cool for about ten minutes it will start and run for about ten minutes again before stalling. Any ideas of what this could be? Any input is greatly appreciated.

A: Yes, it sounds like you are having problems with an ignition coil that is breaking down as it warms up, then when they cool they will start working again.

Q: My 22 hp Kawasaki runs rough when engine is cold and even after it is warmed up it has a little surge and lacks some of it’s power. I have changed the oil, the plugs, and adjusted the valves to .010, changed the primary breather, and have had no improvement. Any suggestions? Also I would prefer the torque of a diesel…is there much to converting? Are the John Deere 445 and 455 basically the same GT.? The fellow I bought this from used, rebuilt the engine and it ran great for about the first 40 to50 hrs. Another question: regarding the 54″ deck, the belt has a lot of flop in it and occasionally jumps off when engaging. the belt is new. Thanks for any advice you might have.

A: I would suggest you take a compression check on the engine and see how even they are to each other. If the compression is high and even, then check the intake system to see if you have any vacuum leaks. If that is O.K. maybe you’ll have to check into you fuel injection system.

It would be much cheaper to trade in the John Deere 445 for a 455 than to make the conversion you asked about.

With the belt problem, it sounds like you might have a bent pulley. If this is bent in on one spot it will make the belt get longer and shorter each turn of the pulley, therefore causing belt whip.

Links to our web site Questions & Answers about:

Repowering Garden Tractors and other equipment
Parts and Service
Garden Tractor Attachments
Hydrostatic Transmission Rebuilding
Tractor Cabs
Garden Tractors in general
Repowering Case Garden Tractors

The KT17 Series I engine had a poorly designed main bearing on the crankshaft. It had an oil pump, but the oil pump did not pump the oil to the most important place, the connecting rods. It used a splash system on the connecting rods and you were instructed not to drive the tractor on hills. This engine breaks a connecting rod and the piston stops up against the head. It will sit there and run with no knocks with one piston standing still.

A question from our e-mails:

Q: I have a John Deere 317 garden tractor with the original Kohler KT17 engine. This past mowing season I noticed oil draining from the blow by vent.

Is there much entailed to installing the Vanguard engine in the JD 317?

The tractor is in very good condition but I use it for tilling our small garden and mowing my 1 acre.

Does your repower kit require any sheet metal alterations to the side guards? Is the 18HP engine your recommendation or a larger HP engine? I run the power flow collection system when I mow and use the tiller. I was wondering if a larger engine would be less stress on the engine.

A: The 18 horsepower Vanguard engine would easily have more than enough power. The Vanguard 18 horsepower puts out a short 20 horsepower as this engine is a little under rated. You do not have to cut any sheet metal. When you get done it will be a nice neat job and you will almost think you have power steering.

We have installed many Vanguards engines in dozens of John Deere 317 garden tractors. That is the only way to go.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

John Deere 318 repowered with a Vanguard engine

One of our favorite garden tractors to repower is the John Deere 318. It’s a nice feature packed model and almost always worth fixing whatever might be wrong with it. A recent question sent about repowering a 318:

Q: Do you have a bolt in replacement kit for a John Deere 318? I have a bad Onan engine and would like a price for a kit. What comes in the installation kit? Is the wiring harness the same? Engine mounts? Clutch? I am looking for a relatively easy in and out. Do you provide phone support?

A: I have the top of the line Vanguard engines. They are the only way to go. Yes, we offer telephone support and a lot of it. You can call as many times as you need to on my toll free number to get your installation completed. There is a list of the items in the installation kit on our web site on the engine page. You do not take out your original wiring harness. There are no engine mounts that you have to mess with. All you do on that part of the subject is to drill 4 holes in the frame to mount the engine. Yes, you use your same PTO clutch as we have a special machined bushing so you can save buying that $300 PTO clutch. You will think this job is fairly easy to do providing you are a little mechanically inclined. We have sold quite a few of these repower kits for John Deere 318′s over the years and I don’t think anyone who intended on doing the installation themselves couldn’t complete the job.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

John Deere 420 garden tractor

These garden tractors all have something in common, they are powered with Onan engines. The Onans are decent engines but it is getting more difficult to find parts for any needed repairs.

Q: My John Deere 318 garden tractor with an Onan 18HP engine surges or pulsates under no load. When the PTO is engaged with any attachment the surge disappears? I bought it used last year and it is a great work horse.

A: It sounds to me like you have water or dirt in the carburetor. Take the top off and check for dirt or water. Take out the front jet toward the muffler, blow air through that orifice. Put it back together and adjust that air screw by the muffler and I would like to think everything now would be O.K.

Q: I have a Simplicity 9020 garden tractor with a tired Onan engine. I’m wondering about replacing the engine, or rebuilding it. Are parts still available for Onan?

A: Onan is slowly going out of business as they did not build an engine to pass our pollution standards. Our 23 horsepower Vanguard engine is by far the best way to go and is the best air cooled engine that money can buy.

Q: I have a 1987 John Deere 420 garden tractor with an Onan 20 HP engine and it surges. When I remove the air cleaner I can see the fuel being squirted into the carburetor when a surge comes. I have rebuilt most of the motor and installed a new carburetor and it is still doing it. Do you have any advice? Do you have a repower in a Vanguard?

A: It sounds to me like you have a leaking intake manifold. The way they have built the intake manifold is a bad design. Yes we have a Vanguard V-Twin overhead valve engine and made to order installation kit for your application.

Q: I have an Onan P218G with electronic ignition in my John Deere 317 garden tractor. It Runs great. I replaced the rings about 2 years ago and so the engine is clean inside.

When I start it, it often kicks back. Sometimes it locks up the starter. When it does this I have to take off the side cover and pry on the cooling fins to turn over the engine a small amount to get the starter to work again.

I took the engine out and checked to make sure the flywheel key was not broken off, it wasn’t. I replaced the spark plugs and this seemed to help some but now it is kicking back and locking up the starter again. It even unscrewed the nut on the starter twice and I had to take the engine out to put the nut back on.

Do I need a new electronic ignition?

A: When you had the engine out did you check the 2 holes in the block where the 2 starter bolts go through? You need to make sure one of those holes or both are not cracked or broken. You should replace that electronic module inside the flywheel. Also there is an electric ring slid on the crankshaft, that should be inspected and or replaced.

Q: I am the owner of a John Deere 420 garden tractor. I have been very happy with it since purchasing it used 6 years ago. Recently I have been having a problem with it losing power and shutting down after running for about 20 minutes. After checking it I discovered the spark is not there. What could be causing this situation? I think it is the Ignition coil or stator, can you confirm this for me? It is a P220G with an electronic ignition.

A: It would not be the stator because that has nothing to do with the ignition system, and yes it can be the ignition coil and or the ignition module located inside the flywheel.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

Garden Tractor pull video from 1992 – Geo

Jim at a Garden Tractor Pull

If you click the link above the picture to the left there is a short video of Jim in a tractor pull in 1992 with his garden tractor puller called the Geo.  It had a 3 cylinder Geo engine in it.

Garden tractor pulling is not the same as garden tractor racing. Pulling is not about the speed of the tractor but about the power and traction it has. Over the years I have won and lost with quite an assortment of garden tractors of just about every brand. I lost most of my pullers in a fire a few years back but I have a few built up again. I am definitely not an expert about tractor pulling but I’ve done a lot of it. I started with pulling my dad’s farm tractor a few times in North Dakota. Later I tried my hand at pulling with my “classic” John Deere’s, a John Deere 830 and John Deere 820. I switched to garden tractor pulling in the 70′s. I have a garden tractor pulling page on our web site, you can check out some pictures there if you are interested. Check out our “Geo Story” page too, I put a 3 cylinder Chevy Geo engine in a John Deere 140 for tractor pulling, later I put the same engine in a John Deere 317. .The most common e-mailed question I get is:

Q: I would like to build my own garden tractor puller, I have a garden tractor, what do I do next?

My answer always is:

A: You need to check with the people or association that you are going to pull with, find out the different weight classes they will be having pulls in, and get their list of rules. That will tell you what kind of garden tractors, engines, tires, weights, and safety equipment you can use.

Q: My daughter has pulled lawn and garden tractors for the past two years in 1100 lb and 1400 lb stock classes with good success, but this year we are looking to step it up considerably. Our first year we used a Wheel Horse with a single cylinder 12HP – 8 speed and ran mid pack. Last year we used a Wheel Horse 416-8 with a twin 16HPp engine and finished in the money with every pull. This year I was looking to go with a Wheel Horse 520H, but a friend of mine who used to pull successfully in the past told me that the 520H was a great tractor, but would not pull as well as a gear driven because the hydro has no low range and just didn’t pull well. I then found a rare 520-8, but the same friend told me that this would be more power than I would need and would spin out. He suggested sticking to the 416-8. In my opinion, there is no such thing as too much power in pulling and that although they do weigh more, and you can’t put much weight on for the 1100lb class, a hydro might do well and the more horses the better, right?

A: Yes, your correct, the hydro will do better with more horses. I would say you need at least 2 extra horsepower to stay with the stick transmission. You are also correct in saying there is no such thing as too much horsepower, if it had too much power that meant you should have been in a higher gear.

Q: I have recently become interested in garden tractor pulling and have found a good buy on a John Deere 300. It will need a new engine, but my concern was more with the transmission and differential. Will the hydrostatic and rear end hold up good for a puller, or should I keep shopping?

A: Do not worry about that transmission and rear end. I have already put a Chevrolet engine ahead of that package and didn’t even hurt it at 6000 RPM’s.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

New Holland garden tractor

Keeping your garden tractor purring like a kitten can sometimes be a challenge. Repairs most times aren’t all that hard, but knowing what’s wrong can be a little harder to figure out. Here’s some common types of questions written in:

Q: Jim, I have a John Deere model 425 garden tractor that has about 800 hours on it. I use it for mowing only. When I start it up it smokes a little and it will only stay running when the choke is half way up. Can you help me?

A: I would start with the basics and replace the spark plugs, but I think you should clean out and overhaul the carburetor. Don’t worry about the smoke when you start up, as long as you are not taking any oil.

Q: I am working with a New Holland garden tractor. It has new plugs, filters, and fuel at the engine. The 24 horsepower Kohler Model CH22S engine runs O.K. for about 30 minutes until it’s warm then spits, sputters, backfires, and flames out the exhaust, all of which results in a great loss of power. Then after cooling down, it acts the same way again.

Your thoughts are appreciated.

A: Starting with the basics, do you have 5-30 oil in it? This engine has hydraulic valve lifters and they can pump up and hold the valve part way open causing a back fire. Another possibility is you might have a loose valve seat in one of the heads. It could also be a bad hydraulic valve lifter.

Q: I have a 214 John Deere lawn tractor. I put all my snow removal attachments on and everything was working fine. I parked it, came home a week later, and it wouldn’t start. I can start it if I cross over the solenoid. I’ve checked all the wires and everything seems to be fine. So what do I do next?

A: Check the wiring to your PTO safety switch or check the switch. Check the wiring to your shift lever safety switch and also the switch itself. Check the wiring condition plugging into your ignition switch or maybe it could be a bad ignition switch. If none of this takes care of it give me a call.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

Ford 120 Garden Tractor

Our shop offers free equipment troubleshooting advice by telephone or e-mail. I don’t know it all but I have a lot of experience and sometimes know where to find the answers. Sometimes I can’t help at all, but I try. I know the visitors to our web site enjoy reading the questions and answers that are included there, they e-mail and tell me. Now and again I will post some here.

Q: My 1978 John Deere 316 with a Kohler engine starts with a jump but the battery won’t charge. I dont know if it is a voltage regulator or if the starter has a generator built into it. I would appreciate any advice.

A: No, you do not have a generator built into your starter. Your engine has an alternator built into the engine under the flywheel. Take a test light, turn on the ignition switch, touch the center wire on the voltage regulator with the probe of your test light. The light should light, and if it does, then it would tell you that your voltage regulator needs to be replaced. If the light does not light that would mean that you have an open circuit in the ignition switch or the electrical circuit.

Q: I have a Ford 120 with a Kohler 321 engine with an electric clutch to operate the hydraulic pump. I think the bearing has gone bad and I don’t know how to remove the clutch. Is it threaded on or pressed on or…. Please Help. I need this tractor.

A: They are usually bolted on the front of the engine, meaning the crankshaft. Take off the other nuts if you see them on the clutch. Then part of the clutch assembly should slide off – but this very seldom happens. The hub is usually rusted to the crankshaft. If this happens use a lot of penetrating oil and pry back and forth until it starts to loosen and keep oiling it. After it is off, clean the crankshaft with some emery cloth.

Q: I recently bought a 1970 Simplicity 3212H tractor. I new it either had a rod knock or something so I took the engine out, replaced the piston, and put the engine back in. The tractor runs much better, but is there any way that you know of to adjust the hydrostatic rear end for a bit more speed?

A: You can check the hydro linkage if you are getting the maximum stroke on your linkage. I can also go through them and come up with a fair amount of a higher top speed.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

Sundstrand hydrostatic transmission

Cub Cadet, Simplicity, Alles Chalmers, Ariens, and John Deere have garden tractor models that have hydrostatic transmissions. If you have problems with a hydrostatic transmission normally you have to make a decision to:

a: Rebuild it. (somewhat expensive and can be done only if the parts can be found)
b: Replace it. (very expensive and only if the same or compatible transmission can be found) or
c: Get a different garden tractor.

Obviously it’s best if you prevent problems with the hydro transmission before they happen. One of the most common and preventable causes of the hydrostatic transmission failing is pulling/towing the garden tractor. Just don’t do it, not even a short distance. If we need to move a non-running garden tractor around the shop we will even skid the wheels rather than take the chance of ruining a good transmission. We specifically overhaul Sundstrand hydrostatic transmissions, there are other brands. These are a couple of e-mailed questions we have answered about Sundstrand hydrostatic transmissions. It will give you an idea of the symptoms of the hydrostatic transmission failing and a few things to check out before you overhaul or replace it.

Q: I have a question concerning a larger piece of equipment. I have an older Ford front loader with the Sundstrand hydrostatic drive. About a month ago while moving a load of horse manure the unit decided to not move anymore. I called a friend and he guessed that it could be the neutral switch just out of adjustment. Ring any bells for you guys? I don’t know anything about hydrostatic transmissions and am lost!

A: A few recommendations:

1. Check if the driveshaft isn’t stripped and slipping on the transmission.

2. Check the linkage going from your hand or foot control down to the transmission and make sure it did not unhook or fall off.

3. Also check on the arm that hooks on the shaft going into the transmission and make sure it is not slipping.

4. If you have a gear transmission behind your hydro transmission, make sure that it did not jump into neutral.

5. Then, did you check and see if you have a broken axle?

Q: I have a John Deere LX 176 lawn tractor, 38 inch mower deck, with a hydrostatic transmission. It has a few hours on it but is in good condition, with one small exception. It has slowly refused to climb the slope in my front yard. About half way up it simply gives up and makes a shuddering sound. This seems to also be aggravated by temperature. The colder it is the better it works and then as the tractor gets hotter it won’t back up even on a slight incline. I fear the hydro needs rebuilding, do you agree?

A: First check to see if your traction drive belt is not slipping or you have a locked up idler pulley.

Q: I checked both conditions as you suggested and both are to specification. It has a new John Deere belt. The condition as I described it before also gets worse as the temperature of the transmission rises. After an hour of use the speed in both forward and reverse slows with any change in grade. I have had several John Deere riding lawn mowers before and used them on the terrain with no similar results.

A: Yes, I agree, you are correct that your problem is a bad hydrostatic transmission. It looks as though there might be 3 different transmissions, so we need to start with getting the serial number from your lawn tractor.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

Vanguard Replacement Engine Repower

The colder weather has gotten us busy getting our garden tractors “running good”. If you treasure your garden tractor, treat it to a new engine.

Q: I have a Cub Cadet 1650 garden tractor and am interested in putting in your Vanguard 18 horsepower engine or larger. Your kit, will the original drive shaft bolt up to the kit and the motor mounts, will the engine utilize the same ISO mounts as the original or will a new mounting system be supplied?

A: We usually take out the mounts and go solid to the frame. The Vanguard engines are so smooth they do not need the rubber mounts. There is more than one correct way to do the job and some of my customers mount on a rubber plate. Part of your original driveshaft will get reused. Also when you get this job done the tractor will almost feel like you have power steering after dropping 40 to 60 pounds off the front axle.

Q: Jim, I have a Bolens Model H14XL garden tractor (1458). I believe it is a 1979 or 1980 model with a Techumseh OH140 14horsepower engine that I would like to repower. Would you know of an engine that would fit?

A: Yes the 18 horsepower V-Twin Vanguard engine will take the place of that Tecumseh engine. The Vanguard engine also has an oil filter and oil pump and will fit right in that tractor. The Vanguard 18 horsepower actually puts out a short 20 horsepower. We also have the installation kits to get the job done.

Q: My Onan P218 engine cratered the other day and I do not want to trash my John Deere 318 garden tractor. I would like a replacement engine that drops in with little modifications to the tractor. Please let me know what you recommend. I would like to do the repower in January while the weather is bad.

A: We can set you right up and in my opinion this is the only way to go. The Vanguard V-Twin, overhead valve, 18 horsepower engine will fit right in and your side panels can go back on. It looks neater than factory when you get done. I also offer a very handy set up for you to do your installation. If you run into a problem just give me a call on my toll free number and I can talk you through any problem you might run into.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

John Deere 140 garden tractor

The John Deere 140, In 1968, was the first hydrostatic garden tractor born to John Deere. It had a 12HP Kohler engine. In 1969 John Deere changed the engine to a 14 HP Kohler. The John Deere 140′s were manufactured with the Sundstrand high gear hydrostatic transmissions up through the serial number 30,000 or 1970. The garden tractors with the serial number 30,001 and above and built in 1971 and newer had the new style Sundstrand transmission. This transmission was used up through all of the John Deere 140′s, ending in 1974. That style hydrostatic transmission was used in all of the John Deere garden tractors including the 120, 140, 300, 312, 314, 316, and 317 ending in 1982.

The John Deere 140 came standard with one hydraulic lever and 2 hydraulic couplers up front. On the 140 H1 John Deere you could special order individual brakes, headlights, and oversize 23×10.50×12 rear tires. Another special order option was the John Deere 140 H3. The H3 came standard with the whole works; triple hydraulics, headlights, individual brakes, and a cigarette lighter. Individual brakes came as a standard option on the 318, 322, 332, 420, and 430 garden tractors and ended as an option in 1992.

I bought my new John Deere 140 H3 garden tractor in November of 1972, making it a 1973 model from J&W Boat and Motor. We bought a JDX8 snowmobile at the same time. We made good use of the “H3” triple hydraulics, as I had the front 54″ blade mounted on the front and bought the optional hydraulic angling kit for it. At the same time I had a John Deere model 33 roto-tiller mounted on the rear, making use of all 3 hydraulic levers simultaneously if I wanted to. One lever is used to raise and lower the blade and has hydraulic down pressure on that same lever, it is built similar to the John Deere farm tractor design. The second lever was used to hydraulically angle the front 54″ push blade from left to right and right to left. The 3rd lever is used to raise and lower the John Deere model 33 roto-tiller. This was a good combination to have together for tearing up and leveling ground. Two hydraulic couplers mounted on the rear of the tractor could be ordered as an option to run a 3 point hitch to use even more attachments.

I personally had a roto-tiller, 49 snowblower, the 48″ mower deck, and a Johnson Workhorse front end loader. Other attachments I’ve had are a sickle bar mower, thatcher with engine mounted vacuum system and trailer, 54 inch front push blade, 54C center blade, 3 point hitch, and integral hitch.

I wish they had come out with an hour meter, it would be interesting to know the great amount of hours on this machine. We use this tractor commercially to run our business. It has gone through three of the 1 cylinder, 14 HP Kohler engines and then in 1988 the Briggs Vanguards came into being. We installed a 14 HP, V Twin, overhead valve, Vanguard engine with an oil filter and oil pump. The repower ended all the engine headaches and this engine is running steady today with many many hours on it. I’m afraid this engine and tractor is going to outlive me! This tractor has been used in tractor pulling since 1973 and basically knew nothing but 1st place for years. I’m proud to let friends and customers try out my 140 to get a feel for the great sturdy tractors and the power of the Vanguard engines. Once in a while I even show off and do some wheelies with it. The price of my 1973 John Deere 140 H3 was $1745. $10,000 today wouldn’t buy you those kinds of options in a new John Deere garden tractor.

I once installed a 3 cylinder Geo engine in a John Deere 140 for garden tractor pulling, if you would like to read about it check out this page: http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/geo_story.htm

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

The Case garden tractor Yahoo group: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/casegardentractors/ is a great resource. At the shop we have been combining two Case 446 garden tractors into one working tractor and repowering it. If you would like to check out the repower on the Case 446: http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/case-repower-ingersoll.htm I told the owner I would find him an operators manual for the roto-tiller that came with them. I searched for quite a while and then asked on the Case Garden Tractor Forum. Within an hour at least two replies led me to where I could buy one.

Links to other brands of garden tractor Yahoo groups:

Wheel Horse garden tractors: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/wheelhorsegardentractors/

Yanmar tractors: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/yanmartractorownersgroup/

International Cub Cadet: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ihccubcadettractors/ and http://groups.yahoo.com/group/ihcubloboyseries/

Gravely garden tractors: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/gravelyclub/

Simplicity and Allis Chalmers: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SimplicityandAllisChalmersGardenTractors/

Bolens garden tractors: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/thebolensclub/ and http://groups.yahoo.com/group/BolensTractorsClub/

Massey Ferguson garden tractors: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/masseyfergusongardentractors/

I check into quite a few other garden tractor groups that aren’t brand specific and some that host classified ads and wanted to buy ads. This is just a sample of my favorites.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

All “L” series are now “100″ series
LT & LX series are now “X300″ series
GT & GX series are now the “X500 Multiterrain tractor” series
X400 & X500 series are the “X700 Ultimate tractor” series

102 – 17hp, 5spd, 42 inch deck
115 – 19hp, hydro, 42 inch deck
125 – 20hp, hydro, 42 inch deck
135 – 22hp, hydro, 42 inch deck
145 – 22hp, hydro, 48 inch deck
155C – 25hp, hydro, 48 inch deck
190C – 25hp, hydro, 54 inch deck

X300 – 17hp, hydro, 38 or 42 inch deck
X304 – 17hp, hydro, 42 inch deck, 4ws
X320 – 22hp, hydro, 48 inch deck
X324 – 22hp, hydro, 48 inch deck, 4ws
X340 – 25hp, hydro, 54 inch deck

X500 – 25hp, hydro, 48 inch deck
X520 – 26hp, hydro, 54 inch deck
X534 – 25hp, hydro, no deck, 4ws, PS
X540 – 26hp, hydro, 54 inch deck, PS

X700 – 23hp carb gas, hydro, PS – Comparable to the 425 then X475
X700 series have 48,54,or 62 in.decks
X720 – 27hp EFI gas, hydro, PS – Comparable to the 445 then the 485
X724 – 27hp EFI gas, hydro, PS, 4ws – Comparable to the 445 AWS then the X485 AWS
X728 – 27hp EFI gas, hydro, PS, 4wd – Comparable to the X585
X740 – 24hp diesel, hydro, PS – Comparable to the 455 then the X495
X744 – 24hp diesel, hydro, PS, 4ws – Comparable to the 455 AWS then the X495 AWS
X748 – 24hp diesel, hydro, PS, 4wd – Comparable to the X595
(comparables added by Jim)

The engines in the new X series are all Kawasaki or Yanmar and are exclusive to the John Deeres.