The KT17 Series I engine had a poorly designed main bearing on the crankshaft. It had an oil pump, but the oil pump did not pump the oil to the most important place, the connecting rods. It used a splash system on the connecting rods and you were instructed not to drive the tractor on hills. This engine breaks a connecting rod and the piston stops up against the head. It will sit there and run with no knocks with one piston standing still.

A question from our e-mails:

Q: I have a John Deere 317 garden tractor with the original Kohler KT17 engine. This past mowing season I noticed oil draining from the blow by vent.

Is there much entailed to installing the Vanguard engine in the JD 317?

The tractor is in very good condition but I use it for tilling our small garden and mowing my 1 acre.

Does your repower kit require any sheet metal alterations to the side guards? Is the 18HP engine your recommendation or a larger HP engine? I run the power flow collection system when I mow and use the tiller. I was wondering if a larger engine would be less stress on the engine.

A: The 18 horsepower Vanguard engine would easily have more than enough power. The Vanguard 18 horsepower puts out a short 20 horsepower as this engine is a little under rated. You do not have to cut any sheet metal. When you get done it will be a nice neat job and you will almost think you have power steering.

We have installed many Vanguards engines in dozens of John Deere 317 garden tractors. That is the only way to go.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

John Deere 318 repowered with a Vanguard engine

One of our favorite garden tractors to repower is the John Deere 318. It’s a nice feature packed model and almost always worth fixing whatever might be wrong with it. A recent question sent about repowering a 318:

Q: Do you have a bolt in replacement kit for a John Deere 318? I have a bad Onan engine and would like a price for a kit. What comes in the installation kit? Is the wiring harness the same? Engine mounts? Clutch? I am looking for a relatively easy in and out. Do you provide phone support?

A: I have the top of the line Vanguard engines. They are the only way to go. Yes, we offer telephone support and a lot of it. You can call as many times as you need to on my toll free number to get your installation completed. There is a list of the items in the installation kit on our web site on the engine page. You do not take out your original wiring harness. There are no engine mounts that you have to mess with. All you do on that part of the subject is to drill 4 holes in the frame to mount the engine. Yes, you use your same PTO clutch as we have a special machined bushing so you can save buying that $300 PTO clutch. You will think this job is fairly easy to do providing you are a little mechanically inclined. We have sold quite a few of these repower kits for John Deere 318′s over the years and I don’t think anyone who intended on doing the installation themselves couldn’t complete the job.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

Repowering a Case Ingersall garden tractor - Case 446

The Case and Ingersoll garden tractors are good quality, solidly built, vintage tractors. At our shop they are one of the most popular selling repowers we do. Many have had their tractors since they were new, some have inherited them from family or with some property they’ve purchased. There is a Case Garden Tractor Yahoo group where owners share their tips and ideas. We have a Case – Ingersoll Repower web page on our web site with questions and answers about repowering (replacing the engine) the Case-Ingersoll garden tractors. Here are some of the questions and answers about the
Case – Ingersoll models we’ve gotten in our e-mails:

Q: I need to replace the fuel pump on my Case 446 garden tractor. The pump is defective – the tractor will not fire when cranked unless I pour a little gas in the carburetor. Then it will run fine until the gas is gone. Do you have the parts to replace / or rebuild the unit? If not would you recommend using another 12 dc pump on the gas line that would be activated when the key is turned on?

A: Yes, just install an electric fuel pump in series with the current fuel pump and carburetor.

Q: I have a case 446 garden tractor built in 1974. The starters drive gear will spin but will not go forward to engage the flywheel. That’s problem number one. Problem number two is the front shield. My brothers solution is to cut the shield to gain access the area to remove the starter. I would like to avoid this at all costs.

A: You need to remove the engine, and remove the fan shroud, and then unbolt the starter.

Q: I just bought a Case 444 garden tractor and I am having problems getting it to run. When I bypass the solenoid it will just go clunck, clunk. It acts as if it is not getting any fire. I changed the coil, sparkplug, and wire. I just bought a new solenoid. It’s getting gas b/c it is running out of the air filter. What do you suggest?

A: By going clunk, clunk, are you telling me the starter and engine are not turning over? If that is so, it sounds like you have a shorted starter, or a starter with an open circuit.

Q: I have an Ingersoll 448 garden tractor. I was reading about the repowering you’ve done and am quite impressed. I think I will do it later during winter season. I think the price is great and it sounds very easy.

I do have a question for you. I’ve tinkered with this mower for years now and it’s been very reliable. Recently the battery light has been staying on, lights are dim and the battery eventually runs down and needs to be charged to start it. I just replaced the rectifier/regulator and it still stays on. There’s a little metal capacitor looking device with 3 wires (1 going to the starter relay, 1 going to the battery light and 1 going to the negative battery terminal). Do you think this part is bad? I guess the key switch may be involved too as I look at the wiring diagram. What do you suggest?

Also, this mower surges when running. It’s a steady constant rev and decline. when I mow, I don’t notice it at full throttle but when i slow the engine it begins again… hot or cold. I noticed that when it pulls itself under a slight load, it quits too. The only other remedy is to pull the choke half way out and it idles smooth. I changed the fuel and air filter and it still does it.

A: I think you need to check if the center wire on your rectifier is hot with the ignition on. If it is not hot, that is your problem. The second test you need to have an AC voltmeter and check the two stator wires with the engine running and they should be putting out 24 to 36 AC volts. If it is not the stator is junk and I would not fix that as it also sounds like you are having Onan governor problems.

Q: I am getting ready to purchase a gently used (290 hours!) Ingersoll 3014 with a Vanguard V-Twin 14hp engine. Does this tractor still have the mechanical PTO clutch like the old Case 22x / 44x series?

A: No it will already have the new electric clutch on it.

Q: I have a 446 Case garden tractor with a B43M Onan Engine. I have replaced the coil, but I am still not getting any spark across the points. Is there a kit or a way to wire up two coils ?

A: No, there is no reason to hook up 2 coils, you should check out your primary side bracket first.

1-800-618-8738

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com

We just did a repower with a 23 hp Vanguard engine on an Olathe Sweeper. We have repowered 4 of these now, this one belongs to a commercial lawn service and it turned out very nice. We have repowered a few golf carts, Bobcats, and some skid steers too. A few questions e-mailed in:

Q: I am replacing the engine on a Ford 340 Skid Loader. The loader has a Wisconsin 30 horsepower VH4D engine, 2800 RPM’s. Can a Briggs 31 horsepower engine be used to replace it? Do you think a hydraulic pump can handle the increase in RPM’s? Have you done this before?

A: Yes, we have taken out a 4 cylinder water cooled Continental engine and installed the 31 horsepower Vanguard engine, it is working fine. Your oil pump usually has no more output going at higher RPM’s. If you are worried about the engine speed it can be brought down of course.

Q: I am currently repowering a 1994 Yamaha G2 golf cart with a 21 horsepower Briggs V-twin Vanguard. I have it all mounted and ready to go except I have fuel coming out of the pump but it doesn’t seem to be getting into the the carburetor. It has what I think is a 2 wire solenoid coming off the back lower part of the bowl. I think it is the anti backfire solenoid? Will that keep it from getting fuel or is it possible the needle or float is stuck? The way I have it wired it cranks and has enough spark. I think you could weld with it, but it won’t fire. If I dribble a little fuel down the carburetor it will run but then stops as soon as it is gone.

A: You have to get electricity to that wire going to your carburetor electric shut off valve. The wire from your golf cart would be the wire that hooked to your plus side of the ignition coil on your old engine.

Q: I have a John Deere SB14 walk behind self propelled mower. The other day it stopped running while cutting grass. I thought I ran out of gas, but that was not it. When I pull the crank the engine runs for about 2 seconds and then dies. Every time I pull the crank I’ll get the same 2 seconds and then die. I suspected the fuel filter, but the gas flows fine with the gas valve open. I still took it apart and cleaned out the fuel tank and filter which were very reasonably clean for an old machine. Suspecting possible carburetor problems I took off the carburetor and sprayed carburetor cleaner through it, it also looked pretty clean. I keep on going back to fuel flow, but I seem to have checked out that area fairly well. Can you offer any ideas? I also replaced the spark plug and tried the carburetor adjustments 1 turn clockwise and 1 turn counter, but this seems to make no change.

A: I would check out your ignition spark quality. If you are getting a small spark or if it is orange in color, then replace the ignition coil.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com
1-800-618-8738

Vanguard Replacement Engine Repower

The colder weather has gotten us busy getting our garden tractors “running good”. If you treasure your garden tractor, treat it to a new engine.

Q: I have a Cub Cadet 1650 garden tractor and am interested in putting in your Vanguard 18 horsepower engine or larger. Your kit, will the original drive shaft bolt up to the kit and the motor mounts, will the engine utilize the same ISO mounts as the original or will a new mounting system be supplied?

A: We usually take out the mounts and go solid to the frame. The Vanguard engines are so smooth they do not need the rubber mounts. There is more than one correct way to do the job and some of my customers mount on a rubber plate. Part of your original driveshaft will get reused. Also when you get this job done the tractor will almost feel like you have power steering after dropping 40 to 60 pounds off the front axle.

Q: Jim, I have a Bolens Model H14XL garden tractor (1458). I believe it is a 1979 or 1980 model with a Techumseh OH140 14horsepower engine that I would like to repower. Would you know of an engine that would fit?

A: Yes the 18 horsepower V-Twin Vanguard engine will take the place of that Tecumseh engine. The Vanguard engine also has an oil filter and oil pump and will fit right in that tractor. The Vanguard 18 horsepower actually puts out a short 20 horsepower. We also have the installation kits to get the job done.

Q: My Onan P218 engine cratered the other day and I do not want to trash my John Deere 318 garden tractor. I would like a replacement engine that drops in with little modifications to the tractor. Please let me know what you recommend. I would like to do the repower in January while the weather is bad.

A: We can set you right up and in my opinion this is the only way to go. The Vanguard V-Twin, overhead valve, 18 horsepower engine will fit right in and your side panels can go back on. It looks neater than factory when you get done. I also offer a very handy set up for you to do your installation. If you run into a problem just give me a call on my toll free number and I can talk you through any problem you might run into.

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738

John Deere 140 garden tractor

The John Deere 140, In 1968, was the first hydrostatic garden tractor born to John Deere. It had a 12HP Kohler engine. In 1969 John Deere changed the engine to a 14 HP Kohler. The John Deere 140′s were manufactured with the Sundstrand high gear hydrostatic transmissions up through the serial number 30,000 or 1970. The garden tractors with the serial number 30,001 and above and built in 1971 and newer had the new style Sundstrand transmission. This transmission was used up through all of the John Deere 140′s, ending in 1974. That style hydrostatic transmission was used in all of the John Deere garden tractors including the 120, 140, 300, 312, 314, 316, and 317 ending in 1982.

The John Deere 140 came standard with one hydraulic lever and 2 hydraulic couplers up front. On the 140 H1 John Deere you could special order individual brakes, headlights, and oversize 23×10.50×12 rear tires. Another special order option was the John Deere 140 H3. The H3 came standard with the whole works; triple hydraulics, headlights, individual brakes, and a cigarette lighter. Individual brakes came as a standard option on the 318, 322, 332, 420, and 430 garden tractors and ended as an option in 1992.

I bought my new John Deere 140 H3 garden tractor in November of 1972, making it a 1973 model from J&W Boat and Motor. We bought a JDX8 snowmobile at the same time. We made good use of the “H3” triple hydraulics, as I had the front 54″ blade mounted on the front and bought the optional hydraulic angling kit for it. At the same time I had a John Deere model 33 roto-tiller mounted on the rear, making use of all 3 hydraulic levers simultaneously if I wanted to. One lever is used to raise and lower the blade and has hydraulic down pressure on that same lever, it is built similar to the John Deere farm tractor design. The second lever was used to hydraulically angle the front 54″ push blade from left to right and right to left. The 3rd lever is used to raise and lower the John Deere model 33 roto-tiller. This was a good combination to have together for tearing up and leveling ground. Two hydraulic couplers mounted on the rear of the tractor could be ordered as an option to run a 3 point hitch to use even more attachments.

I personally had a roto-tiller, 49 snowblower, the 48″ mower deck, and a Johnson Workhorse front end loader. Other attachments I’ve had are a sickle bar mower, thatcher with engine mounted vacuum system and trailer, 54 inch front push blade, 54C center blade, 3 point hitch, and integral hitch.

I wish they had come out with an hour meter, it would be interesting to know the great amount of hours on this machine. We use this tractor commercially to run our business. It has gone through three of the 1 cylinder, 14 HP Kohler engines and then in 1988 the Briggs Vanguards came into being. We installed a 14 HP, V Twin, overhead valve, Vanguard engine with an oil filter and oil pump. The repower ended all the engine headaches and this engine is running steady today with many many hours on it. I’m afraid this engine and tractor is going to outlive me! This tractor has been used in tractor pulling since 1973 and basically knew nothing but 1st place for years. I’m proud to let friends and customers try out my 140 to get a feel for the great sturdy tractors and the power of the Vanguard engines. Once in a while I even show off and do some wheelies with it. The price of my 1973 John Deere 140 H3 was $1745. $10,000 today wouldn’t buy you those kinds of options in a new John Deere garden tractor.

I once installed a 3 cylinder Geo engine in a John Deere 140 for garden tractor pulling, if you would like to read about it check out this page: http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com/geo_story.htm

http://www.jimsrepairjimstractors.com 1-800-618-8738